A toilet that refills every few minutes can send water through the overflow tube for days. We often find a worn flapper, a failing fill valve, or a lift chain that no longer seals the flush valve correctly.
A slow leak beneath the toilet base can stain flooring, soften a subfloor, and loosen the closet bolts. A weak flush can also leave waste in the bowl, leading to repeated flushing and clogs.
We treat water at the base, continuous running, and a toilet that will not flush as work that should not wait. A sticking handle may wait briefly if the tank is not leaking, but a failed seal can waste water or damage the bathroom floor.
Toilet keeps running
We hear that the toilet keeps running, the tank makes a hissing sound, the handle does nothing, or the bowl will not clear. A tank that refills on its own may have a leaking flapper, a fill valve that will not shut off, or water reaching the overflow tube.
We also check toilets that rock on the floor, have water around the base, smell musty near the bowl, or leave a low water level after flushing. These symptoms can overlap, but we trace them to separate parts and repair costs after inspecting the tank, bowl, and floor connection.
Tank and bowl inspection
We start at the tank lid, flush handle, fill valve, flapper, overflow tube, and supply connection. We watch the flush cycle, check the bowl refill level, and test the shutoff valve before disturbing older fittings.
We check supply pressure, which normally falls between 40 and 80 psi in a residential plumbing system. A straightforward tank inspection often takes 20 to 40 minutes, and a dye test can show flapper seepage within 10 to 15 minutes.
We can complete a standard flapper, fill valve, lift chain, handle, or supply tube repair on the visit when the correct part is available and the shutoff operates. A damaged closet flange, soft subfloor, seized shutoff, or special-order flush valve may require further work or a return visit.
Fill valve, flange, and shutoff
Repair scope changes with the failed part. A worn flapper or loose lift chain is usually contained inside the tank, while an aging fill valve, cracked flush valve, or corroded closet bolt can involve more disassembly.
Access changes the work as well. A toilet set over tile, a concealed flange, or a shutoff valve that has seized can require careful removal and replacement of connected parts.
We also account for a manufacturer-specific valve or tank component that has to be ordered. If a property manager, building rule, or required sign-off affects access to the bathroom plumbing, we include that before work begins.
Tank model and bowl
Before calling, check whether the toilet is running now, leaking at the base, or failing to flush. Tell us which bathroom has the problem and whether the bowl rocks when you sit or press near the rim.
Look for the model number inside the tank or beneath the tank lid if it is printed there. Let us know the approximate age of the toilet, whether the shutoff valve turns, and whether the tank area is clear for access.
Call Plumbing Solutions Austin at (737) 300-9206 before a base leak soaks more of the flooring or a running tank sends more water into the overflow tube.
Looking for something else? Try pipe leak repair or the home page.